One of the reasons I chose to come to Onomichi was to ride at least part of the Shimanami Kaido. It is a bike route that crosses several bridges and six islands in the Seto sea, Onomichi being the starting point on the northern end.
I accomplished my goal, to ride a section of the route. I would have made three of the beautiful bridges and four of the islands instead of two and three, respectively, had I any sense at all! But, lacking a healthy common sense, I managed to miss the “recommended route” and pedaled my way furiously around the whole of one of the islands rather than bisecting it as other sensible riders do. I finally came to my senses when I got back to a place I had been much earlier in the ride. I then resorted to my default action these days, which is to laugh at myself and then figure out what to do next. I am trying to give up the very unhealthy habit of getting upset with myself just for being who I am.
I did manage to ride across this lovely bridge, on my way to try to find the ferry that would take me back to Onomichi. The ferry terminal was in what seemed a rather unpromising town. I tried finding a place to sit and rest but it took some time. Still, I found what I thought to be the main street. It turned out to be what small towns in Japan are, as I’ve been learning. They are unpretentious, simple, sometimes cluttered in their way, and full of people going about their affairs as if no bothersome bike-riding tourists were pestering them with questions in English.
But, with my best smile, thanks, and bows, these locals are friendly and laugh easily with me. I sat on a bench outside of a little restaurant and enjoyed the street scene.
I have thoughts of trying “the Kaido” again but I got pretty exhausted today. I may not be up for another attempt, at least not this time around.
This is the small and ancient ferry that got us back to Onomichi, most of us with bikes and wondering how they would fit us all in. Very quaint and cozy, but it did the job.
Autumn In Japan 