Sogen-ji and Takayama

I came to Takayama because it was the closest place to Shirkawa-go where I could find a room. I’m glad to say that was a worthy destination in itself. Many small shops, streets of historic homes, beautiful setting. I was also able to find dinners that I could safely eat, albeit of the carnivorous type. Here is an example:

Obviously, this is one of those grill your own meal and meat places. Actually, a fun kind of experience. There seem to be many of these types of places in Takayama.

Disclosure – I am fully invested in pursuing a predominantly vegetarian diet in the future. However, with my dietary restriction, Japan is not proving to be a good place to be faithful to this future investment of mine.

Now, more disclosure, I “dined” tonight at a joint called “Evil Tex.” I had a Hida beef burger and fries. I’m not proud of myself for this but I did enjoy it.

Then, one of my favorites, at least for coffee:

With pictures on the wall to prove it, it was clear that the place had changed little since 1951. Gotta love the menu, written out completely in pencil. Was it also written in 1951? Plus, excellent coffee from servers who knew what they were doing and may also have been there since 1951. I thanked them as I left, saying, “Tom. Since 1953.”

Then there was this little miracle of a place in a land where my nemesis, wheat, is pervasive:

I had to buy something just to be supportive.

I’ve not forgotten Sogen-ji. It is their large bell, or Bonshō, heading up this post. I went to Sogen-ji in my ongoing desire to see at least some of the Soto zen temples in the places I visit. This was not a very distinguished temple. Not that that is important, at all. It seemed a quiet place, devoid of any active monkish presence. However, I did finally hear a steady thumping sound that might have come from a mokugyo (see my post on Daijo-ji.) I thought I must have been imagining it, when finally, through a tiny window, I was able to see a seated monk, chanting, a mokugyo at his side, with a few persons present to his right. It was, perhaps, a memorial service of some kind. This made me think there was some active presence in the monastery after all. If I was looking for some inspiration here, I did not find it.

I was, however, given warning, such as one might be expected to receive at sacred places where what is Holy is present:

I’ll be more careful when next I enter temple grounds!

Finally, a last picture from Takayama, looking at the lively rush of the Miyagawa River.